Thinness is extremely regarded by collectors and watchmakers. Have you ever reached the zenith with these data? 

You might be pushing the bounds and it’s all the time stimulating internally as a result of it will probably take you to new fields with different functions. With out Finissimo we couldn’t have gotten to the Piccolissimo (the tiny watch motion seen within the Serpenti Misteriosi excessive jewelry watches). As an alternative of constructing it extremely skinny, we made the diameter extremely small. The first motivation is all the time to advance watchmaking applied sciences. If we go thinner or have a smaller diameter, it should be industrial and purposeful. We don’t need to simply do an idea look ahead to the media that everybody calls extraordinary. That isn’t a watch however a technological showcase. We make 30 Ultras a 12 months and it takes hundreds of hours. The elements are too small for the bare eye and all the pieces has to suit collectively. It has to provide time precisely with the facility reserve of about 50 hours. 

In an age when there are heated debates about retiring outdated gender norms, Bulgari has distinct watches for women and men.

As a jeweller, we’re primarily a female model with a legacy of ladies’s watches. If it have been left to the classical Swiss watchmakers, you’d have principally masculine watches in small sizes for women. They are going to begin with a males’s watch after which shrink it, add diamonds. However our Serpenti, Lucea and Diva’s Dream watches have been born for girls. The Octo Finissimo, in the meantime, doesn’t exist for women. Not but.

You’ve got addressed the ceremonial worth of jewelry in India, with the ₹12 lakh Bulgari Kada for males launched earlier this 12 months, and the Mangalsutra in 2021.

The error many Western luxurious firms make, as a result of many Indians converse fluent English and have studied overseas, is pondering [potential clients] are absolutely westernised. However Indian tradition and traditions are deep-rooted. We take note of what Indians like that respect custom and we herald our experience with jewelry. The shop additionally has a unisex counter with the B.zero1 line. Quickly we could have a full assortment for males however we want this unisex ‘step’. We should be agile and deal with the native clientele.

You’ve got stated that 2023 was one of the best 12 months for Bulgari in India. How is that this completely different from China?

Whereas we’re current solely in Delhi and Mumbai for now, there are lots of prospects. We even have a number of Indian purchasers in Dubai, London, Paris and Rome. The Chinese language are nonetheless inquisitive about luxurious however they’re cautious and take longer to make up their thoughts. They have an inclination to journey brief distances, maybe to Japan or Korea, the place hospitality is less expensive than in Europe or North America. Due to this fact it’s not a world luxurious market however a luxurious market with completely different speeds.

Geneva Watch Days, the choice watch honest you launched in 2020, could have over 50 manufacturers this August. How do you keep forward of all of it as a CEO? Do you ever sleep?

It’s a large privilege for me to have the possibility to leap from a brand new resort undertaking to Watches and Wonders to the opening of a brand new flagship in India to launching a brand new perfume. I’m in 5 completely different firms, all in someday! However I take holidays, and most of my weekends I’m with my household. One of many causes is that I’m surrounded by the precise folks which might be proficient, decided, dedicated and accountable. I sleep the standard six hours (laughs). I’m advised the older you get, the much less you sleep. You already know why? As a result of you’ll die. I’m not being morbid however optimistic. You already know it’s important to get essentially the most out of your time.